How to Make Homemade Waterproofing: Practical Solutions for Your Projects

There's nothing quite as frustrating as seeing your hard work, whether it's a beloved piece of furniture, an outdoor gear item, or even a minor home repair, succumb to water damage. I remember vividly the time I spent hours meticulously refinishing an antique wooden chest, only for a sudden downpour during a move to leave unsightly water stains. That experience really hammered home the importance of proper waterproofing. It's not just about aesthetics; it's about preserving the integrity and longevity of our belongings. Fortunately, you don't always need to spend a fortune on specialized commercial products. In many cases, you can effectively create your own homemade waterproofing solutions using readily available materials. This article will delve into the various methods for making homemade waterproofing, offering practical advice, step-by-step instructions, and insights into why these techniques work, ensuring your projects stay dry and protected.

Understanding the Principles of Waterproofing

Before we dive into the "how-to," it's essential to grasp the fundamental principles behind waterproofing. Essentially, waterproofing involves creating a barrier that prevents water from penetrating a material. This barrier can be achieved in a few primary ways:

Repellency: Making a surface hydrophobic, meaning it actively repels water. Think of how water beads up on a waxed car.
Barrier Formation: Creating a physical layer or film that water cannot pass through. This could be a solid coating or a dense weave.
Impregnation: Allowing a substance to soak into the material's pores, filling them and creating a water-resistant matrix.

Understanding these concepts helps us choose the right homemade waterproofing method for different materials and applications. For instance, impregnating a porous fabric will yield different results than creating a surface barrier on wood.

DIY Waterproofing for Fabrics: Beyond the Store-Bought Sprays

Fabrics are notoriously susceptible to water damage, whether it's a canvas tent, an outdoor cushion, or even a favorite backpack. While commercial waterproofing sprays are convenient, making your own can be surprisingly effective and often more economical, especially for larger projects. The key here is to create a treatment that either repels water at the surface or creates a somewhat impermeable layer without making the fabric overly stiff or brittle.

The Beeswax and Oil Method: A Timeless Classic

This is perhaps one of the oldest and most reliable methods for waterproofing fabrics, particularly natural fibers like cotton and canvas. It relies on the natural water-repellent properties of beeswax and the flexibility it gains from being mixed with oil.

Materials You'll Need:

Pure beeswax (pellets or a block)
A natural oil, such as linseed oil, tung oil, or even a light mineral oil. Avoid heavy oils that can become rancid.
A double boiler or a heat-safe bowl set over a pot of simmering water
Stirring utensil
Your fabric item
A heat source (like an iron or a hairdryer on a low setting)

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Prepare Your Workspace: Lay down old newspapers or a drop cloth to protect your surfaces from any drips or spills. Ensure your fabric item is clean and dry. Any dirt or grime can be sealed in, compromising the waterproofing.
Melt the Beeswax: In the top of your double boiler (or your heat-safe bowl over simmering water), combine a ratio of approximately 1 part beeswax to 2 parts oil. You can adjust this ratio slightly depending on the desired stiffness. More beeswax will make it stiffer but more water-repellent; more oil will make it more pliable but less resistant. Start with a conservative ratio and test on a scrap piece of fabric if possible. Gently heat the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the beeswax is fully melted and combined with the oil. Avoid overheating, as this can degrade the properties of the wax and oil.
Apply the Mixture: You have a couple of options for application.
- Brush/Rag Method: While the mixture is still warm (but not scalding), use a brush or a clean, lint-free rag to apply a thin, even coat to the fabric. Work the mixture into the weave of the fabric. You want to saturate it without leaving heavy, thick patches.
- Ironing Method: For a more even application, especially on larger flat areas, you can melt the beeswax and oil mixture and pour a small amount onto the fabric. Then, place a piece of parchment paper or a clean cotton cloth over it and gently iron it on a low to medium heat setting. The heat will melt and spread the mixture evenly through the fabric. Be cautious not to scorch the fabric.
Heat to Penetrate: Once applied, you'll want to heat the fabric gently to help the mixture penetrate deeper into the fibers. A hairdryer on a low setting, held at a distance, or a warm iron (again, with parchment paper or a cloth) can be used. The goal is to melt the wax and oil, allowing it to soak in. You should see the fabric darken slightly as it absorbs the mixture.
Allow to Cure: Let the fabric air dry completely. This might take several hours, or even overnight, depending on the humidity and the amount of mixture used. As it cools, the beeswax will solidify, creating a water-repellent barrier.
Test Your Work: Once fully dry, test your waterproofing by dripping a small amount of water onto the fabric. It should bead up and roll off.

Expert Insights: This method is particularly well-suited for natural, breathable fabrics like canvas, denim, or heavy cotton. It's excellent for waterproofing tents, tarps, outdoor gear, and even aprons. The resulting fabric will have a slightly waxy feel and a matte finish. It’s important to note that this treatment will reduce the fabric's breathability. For extremely sensitive applications or where breathability is paramount, this might not be the ideal choice. Also, the oil component can sometimes lead to a slight odor, especially in humid conditions, though this usually dissipates over time.

Paraffin Wax and Turpentine (Use with Caution!)

Another traditional method involves paraffin wax dissolved in turpentine. This creates a more liquid solution that can penetrate deeply. However, I must stress the importance of caution with this method. Turpentine is highly flammable and has strong fumes. Ensure you work in a very well-ventilated area, away from any open flames or sparks, and wear protective gloves and eyewear.

Materials You'll Need:

Paraffin wax (from candles or blocks)
Pure gum turpentine (not mineral spirits)
A double boiler or heat-safe bowl over simmering water
Stirring utensil
Your fabric item
Protective gear (gloves, eyewear)
Adequate ventilation

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Safety First: Set up your workspace in a well-ventilated area. Have fire safety equipment readily available.
Melt the Wax: In your double boiler, melt a quantity of paraffin wax.
Add Turpentine: Once the wax is melted, carefully stir in turpentine. A good starting ratio might be 1 part wax to 2 parts turpentine. The goal is to create a thin, brushable liquid. Be extremely cautious, as turpentine is volatile.
Apply to Fabric: Using a brush, apply the warm mixture evenly to the fabric. Work it into the fibers.
Allow to Dry: Hang the fabric to dry completely in a well-ventilated area. The turpentine will evaporate, leaving the wax behind to create a barrier.

Expert Insights: This method can create a very effective waterproofing for fabrics, especially heavier ones like canvas. It penetrates well and leaves a less waxy feel than pure beeswax. However, the flammability of turpentine and the strong fumes are significant drawbacks that necessitate extreme caution. This method is generally not recommended for indoor use or by individuals who are sensitive to chemicals.

Silicone-Based DIY Waterproofing

For a more modern and less volatile approach, you can explore silicone-based DIY waterproofing. This mimics the effectiveness of many commercial sprays.

Materials You'll Need:

Silicone caulk (clear, mold-resistant is best)
Mineral spirits or denatured alcohol (as a solvent)
A plastic container for mixing
Stirring stick
Your fabric or item
Protective gloves and eyewear
Well-ventilated area

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Prepare Your Mixture: In your plastic container, mix silicone caulk with your chosen solvent. A common starting ratio is about 1 part silicone caulk to 3-4 parts solvent. You want a consistency that is spreadable but not overly watery. Work in a well-ventilated area.
Apply the Mixture: Use a brush or sponge to apply the mixture to your fabric or item. Ensure even coverage.
Allow to Cure: Let the item dry completely in a well-ventilated area. The solvent will evaporate, leaving a flexible, waterproof silicone coating.

Expert Insights: This method can be quite effective and offers a good balance of waterproofing and flexibility. It's a good option for items like outdoor upholstery, bags, or even shoes. However, the solvent can affect certain types of fabrics or finishes, so it’s always wise to test on an inconspicuous area first. The quality of the silicone caulk used will also impact the durability and effectiveness of the waterproofing.

Waterproofing Wood: Protecting Your Outdoor Furniture and Structures

Wood, by its nature, is porous and readily absorbs moisture, leading to rot, warping, and decay. Properly waterproofing wood is crucial for anything exposed to the elements, from garden furniture to decks and fences. While stains and sealants are common, several homemade options can provide excellent protection.

Linseed Oil and Turpentine Varnish: A Traditional Wood Protector

This is a classic recipe for protecting wood, offering both waterproofing and a degree of enhancement to the wood's appearance. It’s essentially a simplified varnish that penetrates and cures to form a protective layer.

Materials You'll Need:

Boiled linseed oil (ensure it's "boiled" and not "raw," as boiled contains driers to speed up curing)
Pure gum turpentine (again, use with caution due to flammability and fumes)
Your wooden item
Brushes
Rags for wiping
Protective gear
Well-ventilated area

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Prepare the Wood: Ensure the wood is clean, dry, and free from any old finishes or debris. Sanding can help open the pores for better penetration.
Mix the Varnish: In a well-ventilated area, mix boiled linseed oil and turpentine in a ratio of approximately 1:1. You can adjust this ratio – more turpentine will result in a thinner finish that penetrates deeper but cures faster, while more linseed oil will create a thicker, more durable film.
Apply the First Coat: Apply a thin, even coat of the mixture to the wood using a brush. Work with the grain.
Wipe Off Excess: Allow the oil mixture to soak into the wood for about 15-20 minutes. Then, using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe off all excess oil. This step is crucial. Leaving excess oil on the surface can result in a sticky, gummy finish that attracts dirt and doesn't cure properly.
Allow to Cure: Let the wood cure in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. This can take anywhere from 24 to 72 hours, or even longer, depending on humidity and temperature. The finish will gradually harden.
Apply Subsequent Coats: For better protection, apply 2-3 more thin coats, repeating steps 3-5 for each layer. Lightly sanding with very fine-grit sandpaper between coats can create a smoother finish.

Expert Insights: This homemade varnish is excellent for outdoor furniture, wooden tool handles, and even bare wood floors that won't see extreme wear. It provides good water resistance and a natural, warm look. However, it's not as durable as modern polyurethane finishes for high-traffic areas. Remember that rags soaked in linseed oil can spontaneously combust, so always properly dispose of them by spreading them out to dry completely in a safe outdoor location or soaking them in water before disposal. The use of turpentine necessitates significant safety precautions.

Pure Tung Oil: A Natural and Durable Option

Tung oil, derived from the nut of the tung tree, is a highly regarded natural oil finish known for its durability and water resistance. While it can be expensive, applying pure tung oil is a straightforward way to waterproof wood.

Materials You'll Need:

100% pure tung oil (ensure it's not a "tung oil finish," which often contains varnishes and solvents)
Mineral spirits (optional, for thinning)
Brushes and rags
Your wooden item

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Prepare the Wood: Clean and dry the wood. Sanding is recommended.
Thin the Oil (Optional): For the first coat, you can thin the tung oil with mineral spirits (about a 1:1 ratio) to improve penetration.
Apply the First Coat: Apply a liberal coat of thinned tung oil to the wood. Let it soak in for 20-30 minutes.
Wipe Off Excess: Thoroughly wipe off all excess oil with a clean rag.
Cure: Allow the wood to cure in a well-ventilated area. Tung oil takes time to cure – often 24-48 hours per coat.
Subsequent Coats: Apply subsequent coats of pure, undiluted tung oil, allowing each to penetrate for 20-30 minutes before wiping off the excess. Build up several thin coats for optimal protection.

Expert Insights: Pure tung oil creates a beautiful, matte finish that becomes increasingly durable and water-resistant with each coat. It's excellent for cutting boards, wooden bowls, outdoor furniture, and boat building. It's naturally resistant to mildew and does not turn yellow over time. The main drawbacks are its cost and the longer curing time compared to some other finishes.

The "Waxed" Wood Finish: A Simple Barrier

For a simpler, less involved approach to waterproofing wood, particularly for items that don't need extreme durability, a wax-based finish can suffice. This method relies on a paste of beeswax and a solvent to create a protective, water-repellent layer.

Materials You'll Need:

Beeswax pellets or shavings
Mineral spirits or naphtha (for dissolving the wax)
A heat-safe container (like a glass jar)
A stir stick
Your wooden item
Rags
Well-ventilated area

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Prepare Your Mixture: In your heat-safe container, combine beeswax and mineral spirits. A good starting point is about 1 part beeswax to 4 parts mineral spirits. You want a consistency that's like a soft paste once the wax is melted and dissolved.
Melt and Dissolve: You can use a double boiler or a microwave (in short bursts, stirring frequently) to melt the beeswax and dissolve it into the mineral spirits. Remember that mineral spirits are flammable, so exercise caution.
Cool to Paste Consistency: Once the wax is fully dissolved, allow the mixture to cool slightly. It should thicken into a paste as it cools. If it's too hard, add a little more mineral spirits; if it's too thin, add a bit more beeswax and gently re-melt.
Apply to Wood: Using a clean rag or fine steel wool, apply a thin layer of the wax paste to the clean, dry wood. Work it into the grain.
Buff: After applying, let the wax sit for a few minutes, then buff the surface with a clean, soft cloth to a gentle sheen.

Expert Insights: This is a great way to add a bit of water repellency and a lovely soft sheen to wooden objects like picture frames, small decorative items, or even interior wooden surfaces. It's easy to reapply as needed. It's not a heavy-duty waterproofing solution for outdoor use but is excellent for interior items where moderate protection is desired.

Waterproofing Other Materials: Leather, Concrete, and More

The principles of homemade waterproofing can extend beyond fabric and wood to other materials as well.

Leather: Keeping Your Boots and Gear Dry

Leather, especially footwear and accessories, benefits greatly from waterproofing to prevent it from becoming saturated, stiff, and prone to cracking.

The Beeswax and Oil Method for Leather: This is a highly effective and natural way to waterproof leather.

Materials You'll Need:

Beeswax
A natural oil like neatsfoot oil, mink oil, or even lanolin. Avoid petroleum-based products.
A heat source (low heat is essential)
Your leather item
Soft cloths

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Clean the Leather: Ensure the leather is clean and free from dirt and old conditioners.
Prepare the Mixture: Gently melt beeswax with your chosen oil in a double boiler. A common ratio is 1 part beeswax to 2 parts oil. You want a consistency that is easily spreadable when warm but solidifies when cool.
Apply to Leather: While the mixture is warm (not hot), apply it liberally to the leather using a soft cloth or your fingers. Work it into the seams and all surfaces.
Allow to Absorb: Let the mixture penetrate the leather for at least 30 minutes, or even overnight for heavily dried-out leather.
Buff Off Excess: Use a clean, soft cloth to buff off any excess. The leather should feel conditioned and slightly waxy, not greasy.

Expert Insights: This method nourishes and waterproofs the leather simultaneously. It's excellent for hiking boots, saddlebags, and outdoor leather gear. It will darken the leather slightly, which is usually a desirable effect. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous area first if you are concerned about color change.

Concrete: Sealing Driveways and Patios

Concrete, while sturdy, can absorb water, leading to freeze-thaw damage, efflorescence (white powdery deposits), and staining. A simple DIY sealant can help.

The Linseed Oil Method for Concrete: Raw or boiled linseed oil can be used to penetrate and seal concrete.

Materials You'll Need:

Boiled linseed oil
Mineral spirits (optional, for thinning and easier application)
Concrete sealer (for a more robust solution, though this is moving away from purely "homemade")
Paint roller or garden sprayer
Your concrete surface
Stiff brush

Step-by-Step Instructions:

Prepare the Concrete: The concrete surface must be clean, dry, and free of any sealants or coatings. A thorough cleaning with a stiff brush and degreaser may be necessary.
Mix the Sealant: For a simple linseed oil treatment, you can use boiled linseed oil diluted with mineral spirits (around a 1:1 ratio) for better penetration.
Apply the Sealant: Apply the mixture to the concrete using a roller or sprayer. Ensure even coverage.
Allow to Penetrate: Let the mixture soak into the concrete for about 20-30 minutes.
Wipe Off Excess: Wipe away any excess oil that hasn't penetrated. If you're using a commercial concrete sealer, follow its specific application instructions.
Cure: Allow the concrete to cure fully. This can take several days, and multiple applications may be needed for optimal protection.

Expert Insights: While linseed oil offers some water repellency for concrete, it's not as durable or long-lasting as commercial concrete sealers specifically designed for this purpose. For driveways and patios that experience significant wear and tear or harsh weather, a dedicated concrete sealer would be a more robust choice. However, for smaller projects or for a natural, temporary solution, linseed oil can be a starting point.

Important Considerations and Safety Precautions

When venturing into homemade waterproofing, safety and proper technique are paramount. Here are some crucial points to keep in mind:

Ventilation is Key: Many DIY waterproofing agents involve solvents like turpentine, mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol. These are volatile and can produce harmful fumes. Always work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors, and consider wearing a respirator if working indoors or with larger quantities.
Fire Hazards: Solvents are often highly flammable. Keep them away from open flames, sparks, and heat sources. Rags soaked in oils like linseed oil can spontaneously combust. Ensure they are spread out to dry completely in a safe outdoor location before disposal.
Material Compatibility: Always test your DIY waterproofing solution on a small, inconspicuous area of the material you intend to treat. Some solvents or oils can discolor, weaken, or otherwise damage certain fabrics, woods, or finishes.
Heat and Melting Points: When working with waxes, use a double boiler to melt them gently. Overheating can degrade the wax and create a fire hazard.
Patience is a Virtue: DIY waterproofing often requires patience. Allowing adequate drying and curing time is essential for the waterproofing to be effective and durable. Rushing the process will likely lead to disappointing results.
Not for All Applications: While homemade waterproofing can be very effective for many common uses, it may not be suitable for highly specialized applications, such as critical structural waterproofing or items requiring extreme temperature resistance.
Read Labels: Even when making your own solutions, understand the properties of the ingredients you are using. For example, "boiled" linseed oil is different from "raw" linseed oil and contains additives to speed up drying.

Frequently Asked Questions About Homemade Waterproofing

How can I make fabric waterproof without chemicals?

You can certainly make fabric waterproof without relying on harsh chemicals, particularly for natural fibers. The most effective chemical-free method involves using beeswax and a natural oil, such as linseed or tung oil. This approach creates a barrier by impregnating the fabric fibers with the wax and oil mixture. When heated, the mixture penetrates the material, and as it cools, the wax solidifies, providing water repellency. This method is excellent for canvas, cotton, and other natural materials intended for outdoor use, like tents or tarps. It's important to ensure the fabric is clean and dry before application. The ratio of beeswax to oil can be adjusted; more beeswax leads to greater stiffness and water resistance, while more oil results in a more pliable fabric. After application, gently heating the fabric with a hairdryer or iron (with protective paper) helps the mixture meld into the fibers. The fabric will have a slightly waxy feel, and its breathability will be reduced, which is a trade-off to consider. For those seeking an even simpler approach, some suggest using just a heavy application of beeswax rubbed into the fabric, followed by gentle heating to melt it in, though this typically offers less comprehensive and durable waterproofing compared to the oil-wax combination.

The key to a chemical-free approach lies in leveraging the natural properties of materials like beeswax. Its molecular structure makes it inherently hydrophobic, meaning it repels water. When combined with a suitable oil, it becomes more pliable and easier to work into the fabric's weave. This creates a physical barrier that prevents water molecules from passing through. It’s a sustainable and environmentally friendly alternative to many commercial sprays that often contain fluorocarbons or silicones. While this method might require reapplication over time, especially with heavy use or frequent washing (though most items treated this way shouldn't be machine washed), it offers a natural and effective way to achieve waterproofing.

Why does the beeswax and oil method work for waterproofing?

The beeswax and oil method works due to the distinct properties of its components. Beeswax is a complex mixture of long-chain fatty acids and alcohols, creating a material that is naturally hydrophobic. This means water molecules have a difficult time adhering to or penetrating its surface. When melted and combined with an oil, such as linseed oil or tung oil, the beeswax becomes more pliable and easier to apply. The oil acts as a carrier and also helps to condition the material being treated, especially if it's fabric or leather. When this mixture is applied and then heated, it penetrates the pores of the material. As the mixture cools, the beeswax solidifies, forming a flexible, water-repellent barrier within and on the surface of the material. The oil component ensures that the wax doesn't make the material overly stiff or brittle, maintaining some flexibility. In essence, it’s creating a micro-barrier of wax that actively pushes water away, preventing it from reaching the underlying material.

Think of it like this: the oil helps the wax to get into all the little nooks and crannies of the fabric fibers or leather grain. Once there, the wax hardens, effectively "plugging" these pathways that water could otherwise exploit. The degree of waterproofing depends on the ratio of beeswax to oil and how thoroughly the mixture is applied and worked into the material. A higher concentration of beeswax generally leads to better water repellency but can make the material stiffer. Conversely, more oil will make it more supple but potentially less resistant to heavy saturation. It’s a balance that you can often adjust based on the specific needs of your project.

What are the risks of using turpentine in homemade waterproofing?

The primary risks associated with using turpentine in homemade waterproofing solutions are its flammability and the health hazards posed by its fumes. Turpentine is a volatile organic compound (VOC) derived from pine trees. It is highly flammable, meaning it can easily ignite in the presence of a spark, open flame, or high heat. This makes working with it inherently dangerous if proper precautions are not taken. Mishandling can lead to fires, which can be difficult to control, especially if the solvent has spread to absorbent materials like rags or sawdust.

Beyond flammability, the fumes produced by turpentine can be harmful if inhaled. Exposure can cause respiratory irritation, headaches, dizziness, nausea, and in higher concentrations or prolonged exposure, more serious neurological effects. It can also irritate the skin and eyes. Therefore, when using turpentine for any DIY project, it is absolutely critical to work in a very well-ventilated area, ideally outdoors. Wearing appropriate personal protective equipment, such as chemical-resistant gloves and safety goggles, is also essential to prevent skin and eye contact. A respirator mask designed for organic vapors is highly recommended, especially if working in less-than-ideal ventilation conditions or with larger quantities. Proper storage of turpentine away from heat sources and ignition points is also a crucial safety measure.

The flammability risk extends to disposal as well. Rags or materials used with turpentine must be handled with extreme care. They should not be crumpled up and thrown away, as the residual solvent can generate heat through evaporation and oxidation, potentially leading to spontaneous combustion. The safest practice is to spread them out flat in a safe, outdoor location away from buildings and flammable materials, allowing them to dry completely before disposal. Alternatively, soaking them in water can help mitigate the risk.

Can I waterproof concrete with just household items?

Yes, you can achieve some degree of concrete waterproofing using common household items, although the effectiveness and longevity might be less than specialized commercial sealers. The most accessible and commonly used household item for this purpose is boiled linseed oil. Linseed oil, derived from flax seeds, has been used for centuries as a natural sealant and wood finish. When applied to concrete, it penetrates the pores and, as it cures (especially when "boiled" linseed oil is used, which contains metallic driers that accelerate the process), it forms a somewhat water-repellent barrier. This can help reduce water absorption, thereby offering protection against freeze-thaw damage and staining.

To enhance its application and penetration, boiled linseed oil is often diluted with mineral spirits or turpentine (though using turpentine adds flammability risks, as discussed). This thinner mixture allows the oil to soak deeper into the concrete. After application, any excess is wiped off, and the surface is allowed to cure. Multiple coats typically provide better protection. Another approach, though less common for pure DIY and more about repurposing, might involve exploring the use of certain types of latex paints or even carefully formulated epoxy resins, but these move beyond simple household ingredients and require more specialized knowledge and application techniques.

However, it's important to manage expectations. Homemade concrete sealants, especially those based solely on linseed oil, will likely not offer the same level of durability, stain resistance, or long-term protection as commercially manufactured concrete sealers. These specialized products are formulated with advanced polymers and siloxanes designed to withstand heavy traffic, UV exposure, and harsh weather conditions more effectively. For critical applications like driveways or patios that experience significant wear and tear or harsh climates, a dedicated concrete sealer is generally recommended for optimal and lasting results. For less demanding applications, such as decorative concrete floors or walls where significant water exposure isn't the primary concern, a DIY approach can offer a practical and economical solution.

Conclusion: Embracing the Power of DIY Waterproofing

Learning how to make homemade waterproofing solutions opens up a world of possibilities for protecting your belongings and undertaking DIY projects with confidence. From the natural efficacy of beeswax and oils for fabrics and leather to traditional varnishes for wood, these methods offer effective and often more economical alternatives to store-bought products. While commercial products have their place, there's a unique satisfaction in crafting your own protective layers using accessible ingredients. Remember to prioritize safety, especially when working with flammable solvents or materials that can combust. By understanding the principles of waterproofing and applying these techniques with care and patience, you can significantly extend the life and improve the performance of a wide range of items, all while enjoying the rewarding experience of creating something yourself.

How to Make Homemade Waterproofing: Practical Solutions for Your Projects